Traveling Ireland Independently

Studying abroad in Dublin is amazing. But let’s be real, everyone comes to Ireland with the image of rolling hills and sheep in their head – and the city, as amazing as it is, does not have much of that. I entered Champlain College’s study abroad program with three of my best friends. Between classes and the occasional pub night, we decided to take advantage of the weekends and travel around the country to see those sheep and hills on our own.

Armed with nothing but our Student Leap Cards, a loose itinerary, and a desire to wander, we left the comfort of Dublin behind. From beautiful landscapes to strangers saving me from a bog, our trips have been unforgettable. Keep reading to learn some tips and tricks I’ve learned along the way and to find some inspiration for your future travels!

Transportation

Transport For Ireland (TFI) oversees public transportation in the Republic of Ireland, including city buses, TFI Local Link, and Iarnród Éireann Irish Rail. While there may not be direct options to every rural destination, TFI makes transportation incredibly accessible to millions of people. The Leap Card is a physical, contactless, prepaid travel card that you can use for public transportation in Ireland.

As a young adult (19-25 years old) or a student (16-18 or 26+), you can order a Leap Card that provides 50% off on all public transport fees, such as buses, trains, trams – it is an incredible offer that has been the backbone of all my travels in the country. Simply apply for the card online and it will be shipped to your Ireland address within 1-2 weeks (shipping internationally will vary). There is a €5 refundable deposit, plus a minimum of €5 travel credit.

On local buses in Dublin, you simply tap your card and pay €1 for your journey. Trams use a “tap-on tap-off” system and charge by ride time, meaning it is important to remember to tap your card again when you exit (or else you may continue to incur charges). Additionally, once you pay for public transport, you will not be charged any additional fees if you tap onto a service again within the next 90 minutes – this is known as the TFI 90 Minute Fare.

You can add cash funds to a TFI Leap card at most convenience stores, indicated by signs on the entrance. You can also download the Leap Top-Up App to quickly add funds, check your balance, see your last 5 transactions, and check the time remaining on your 90 Minute Fare. For navigating the bus and tram timetables, I recommend the Transit App. It is a free app that recommends routes, displays timetables, and shows real-time updates for nearby lines.

Student Leap Card

Planning

Planning a trip can be both exciting and anxiety-inducing. Accommodations, transportation, itineraries, and budget that all need to be considered. When my friends and I travel, we make some strict plans to ensure we hit the must-see spots and keep our budget in check. However, I think it is essential to leave plenty of time for spontaneous adventures. Some of my favorite memories came from unexpected detours and unplanned moments. We met kind and interesting people, found delicious cafes, and saw beautiful sights by simply leaving time to walk around in between plans. Balancing structure with spontaneity creates a meaningful trip without the anxiety of having every minute planned.

Essential itinerary items and important information are best written down somewhere you can quickly reference throughout the day. I like creating Google Spreadsheets with tabs separating itineraries, travel information (planes, trains, etc), and accommodation information.

My friends and I love using Venmo groups to keep track of expenses. Venmo will calculate the amounts owed between users by minimizing the number of transactions needed. It’s a great way to avoid arguments over finances.

Before embarking, research safe areas to stay. Hostels are a great option to save money, and Hostel World can help you find well-rated establishments. Rome2Rio will help map out the most efficient and cost-effective methods of transportation to get to your destination. Once you know when you’re traveling, where you will be staying (if the trip is overnight), how you’re getting there, and what your must-do items are, you’re ready to start exploring!

Trip to the Beach

The first trip my friends and I took outside of the city was to Skerries South Beach in County Dublin. A day trip to a nearby town is a great way to start independent travel while studying abroad here. We took the Irish Rail from Dublin to Skerries for less than €10 round trip. It was a short walk through the small seaside town to the southern beach, where the low tide offered soft sandbanks. We went swimming in the ocean after awkwardly figuring out how to change underneath a towel. Afterward, we climbed a stone staircase up a hill where we had an amazing view of the ocean as pictured below. We grabbed lunch at a local Indian restaurant before hopping on a local bus back to the train station. The only plan we had for the day was to swim at the beach. Exploring the hill, seeing the town, and stopping to eat were spontaneous additions to our day trip that made it so memorable.

Skerries South Beach

Benbulben Trek

Sometimes, spontaneity can lead to mishaps. On one Saturday afternoon, my friends and I decided to go to County Sligo. We had no plans except for our round-trip train tickets. While enjoying the beautiful scenery passing by us on the train, we began researching the town on our phones. We found a supposedly easy hike up the rock formation of Benbulben. If you know anything about this mountain, you should be shaking your head at my friends and me by now. This hike was rough. We all wore sneakers and casual clothing, totally unprepared for the slippery mud leading up extremely steep rocks. Sheep were grazing all around us, and with each “baahhh” I knew they were laughing at our inferior bipedalism.

About three-quarters of the way up the mountain, I decided to not push my luck anymore. My shoes were soaked and slippery, and my ankle was throbbing from my sprain few months prior. I began my descent while I encouraged my friends to continue the hike upwards. Once off the rocks, I had to trek through a field by myself. Except, this wasn’t a normal field – it was a deadly bog that had no marked trails leading back to the main path. I took a step on seemingly safe moss, only to have my left leg sucked in up to my thigh. I was alone, with no cell service, stuck in a bog. Thankfully, I was not sinking, and the rest of my limbs were above the surface. Two strangers appeared after about 20 minutes from the trailhead and I waved them down. They looked just about as unprepared as I was for the treacherous terrain, so after rescuing me from my demise, they decided to head backward. I joined them and asked for a ride back to town – my left shoe had been eaten by the bog and was now an artifact waiting to be found by future historians.

They kindly agreed and dropped me off in town in front of Dunnes, where I sadly walked through the store looking for the cheapest sandals and new pants I could find. The employee took pity on me and gave me her employee discount. Then, when I went to a local coffee shop after changing my clothes, the barista let me wait during closing for my friends to get back to town. While the ordeal was stressful at times, the kindness of these four strangers gave me hope. I feel so grateful for them and would gladly visit Sligo again (as long as I can return with both my shoes).

Editor’s disclaimer: Hiking alone or going off trail is dangerous and not advised by the Champlain Study Abroad Office.

Benbulben // Image by Hannelore Sanokklis

Exploring Killarney & Kenmare

After some successful (and one slightly unsuccessful) day trips, we were ready for an overnight trip to Killarney in County Kerry. Our stay at the Black Sheep Hostel was amazing. The backyard has a garden, fire pit, chicken coop, and plenty of seating protected from the rain. The rooms were clean and themed after different countries. The staff were incredibly knowledgeable and welcoming. In the common room, we met a young woman about our age who was traveling solo. We immediately connected and exchanged socials, with the hope of seeing each other again in Dublin later this semester. We planned nothing for the first day. We simply explored the town and shops, chatted with locals, and grabbed a few drinks at a local pub.

The next day was our scheduled “hop-on hop-off” bus tour. We stopped at the Ross Castle first, where we grabbed some great photos. A “hop-on hop-off” bus is great because it gives you time to explore, which is exactly what we did. A local guide offered boat tours from Ross Castle on the lake, which we immediately knew would be amazing. To our surprise, the guide dropped us off on a nearby island where we saw more than twenty deer up close by the ruins of an old monastery. It was beautiful and surreal.

After getting dropped back off on the mainland, we got on our bus and went to the famous Torc Waterfall. After that, we spent a couple of hours at the Muckross House and Traditional Farm. We saw dozens of animals, including giant Irish wolfhounds!

On our last day, we decided to travel to the nearby town of Kenmare. This quaint town was slower and quieter than Killarney, which is exactly what we needed after an adventurous weekend. Our favorite spot was the spiritual Kenmare Stone Circle which had two hawthorn Fairy Trees as seen below.

During the weekend after our Killarney trip, we made our way to the remote town of Portmagee, County Kerry. To get to Portmagee, we had to take two trains, two buses, and a taxi. This required a full day of travel and a lot of planning. Thankfully, our taxi driver was incredibly helpful in planning our return journey. She gave us the number of her relative who drove the local bus. We called him, and he gave us the number of a local taxi driver who could pick us up before the bus departed. This is a perfect example of why you should trust the locals – they know the best ways to get around. We traveled to this remote town on the west coast of Ireland for one purpose: to catch the last Skellig Michael boat tour of the year. The picture below shows us on the boat, standing in front of the smaller of the two Skellig Michael islands. The boat tour was stunning. Afterward, the local pub was extremely cozy and a perfect place to warm up after a cold day at sea.

Solo Travel

After traveling with my friends, I decided that it was time to travel by myself for the first time. I booked a return trip to Galway for a quick day trip. I wanted to visit Thomas Dillion Gold Jewellers to pick up a claddagh ring for a family member. I loved exploring this coastal town by myself! I had been there a few weeks prior with my classmates on a weekend trip, so I knew this would be a great place for me to visit alone. I already knew the area, and I was able to spend more time in the shops and areas I loved.

Don’t Forget Dublin

Dublin is full of amazing places to eat, drink, shop, sit, explore, and more! Make sure to spend some quality time in the city you’re temporarily calling home. Every time I go out into the city, I encounter a new street with amazing finds. When traveling this amazing country and city, don’t be afraid to stray from the itinerary; some of my most memorable moments happened unplanned. Be open to meeting new people – locals are typically friendly and eager to share their experiences. Embrace the unexpected, and let the journey shape your experience!

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